DO90 Bezel Prices

This just sold for a record $2000.


Is this the way of the future? Honestly I do not know but it is causing a problem in the price chart. A 69 speedmaster can correctly come with this bezel or the DN90, the value difference is obviously now $1000-2000 if it has a DO90 bezel. Perhaps we need two values for the 145.022’s.

I do have an issue with the bezel above is it is not high quality. Note the damage, the scratch between 65 and 60, the mark at 66, the white marks at 115 and 130, 225, 275, dents at 160 and possibly 75. It does not compare for instance with this, sold for 1875 by Watchco / ch-time last year for $1875:

chtime bezel

This bezel had no marks or blemishes compared to the first one.

This bezel madness means that people are now paying as much for a bezel as some later speedmasters are selling for the entire watch:


This is one I bought that admitted needed work but after a full service will come good. And although the bezel is a DN90 it is an attractive fade. The watch cost $1700 and the service and hand will be about $650. Read more here.

So bezels are now going to play a disproportionate influence on the value of a watch.

If a pre 1967 speedmaster does not have one, then it is going to cost the new owner $1000-2000 to get it right. That is a big difference.

Mind you, already I hear whispers by owners threatening to break watches they are selling as they think they might get more for the watch in pieces if it has a nice bezel.

And what a difference a bezel makes:

Before and after:

P5240062 P5240079

I suppose that by today’s values, the lower bezels are adding $2000 in value to the watches. Are they? Another question is if the watches were offered with the lesser bezels how much less would they sell for. In this crazy market maybe no much less.

And how much are those low quality bezels worth now, $600?

Here is my idea of bezel values:

Top, unblemished                                            $2000

Attractive, marked but not too bad     $1200-1500

damaged but passable                                  $600-800

Meteor Bezel                                                      $400

Now already I see a flaw in my values, as the bezel that started this post was not Top, it was Attractive. If it was a blip, an outlier my prices are good.

Unfortunately I may be behind the market and we need to add $500-1000 to my prices. I find it insane, but understandable given the new influx of buyers we are seeing.