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Pulsation Bezel on 2998

The Pulsation Bezel is seen in two executions. Here is a 2998, with an early (vintage) example. The vintage bezel is identified by the silver line separating the inner edge from the numbers.

This particular example is pleasing but with issues.

When buying we must always check the dial, and the dial printing. This is a classic example where the printing, (near the 12 marker) has degraded. While the dial is a correct vintage dial, the condition is lower, and so therefore must be the value. By how much, well thats the game!

Here is the rest of the watch.

We also have to consider the For a long time these bezels were not especially valued, and people wanted the DO90. I have noticed an uptick in interest, and prices paid for the pulsation bezel in recent months.

AQ Fake Bezel Resolved Happily

In December 2018 I traveled with Mrs Fruit to Geneva. Early start, day trip from London.

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Primarily I wanted to look at the 2915’s being offered, as it was a great opportunity to see several examples in one place. I was especially interested to see the prices realised for these early speedmasters after two sold earlier in the year for $400,000 and $275,000. Prices so much outside my understanding I wanted to handle the pieces being offered so I could feel what was going on. I wrote about that visit here.
In my previous life I made my living trawling through auctions (not for watches) and so its a familiar environment. One of the habits I picked up was always try to buy something on a trip. It seems to lock my mind into a feeling of what was going on at the time. It also focuses the mind, trying to find the sleeper in the group. There were four auctions to choose from, surely I could find it? As it turned out, if I had money, the real sleeper might have been one of those Phillips 2915’s.
When buying, my mindset now is all about finding a watch that will knock out an existing watch from my collection. So if I find a good example, I buy it take it home and put it next to the one I have. Best watch wins, and its another OF sales listing for the one that was knocked off the pedestal. 
This caught my eye – its a 2911xxx 145.022-69 with what appeared to be a flawless DO90 bezel:

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Please remember this was December 2018. At that time, not many people considered that a fake DO90 bezel was plausible, possible, or circulating. Let alone circulating early enough to have arrived into an auctioneers office in time to be cataloged for a December sale.
So my hunters eye was drawn to the Dot Over the Ninety bezel – and I focused on the actual dot over the ninety. I went round the rest of the bezel searching for blemishes and saw none. I admit i got over-exited. To me, a flawless real DO90 is worth $5000. No question. Offer one to a big speedmaster dealer for his grumpy 2998 with a meteor bezel and he will snatch it from you. So my feeling was that at $6500 for the whole watch it was a bargain. The bracelet is a later 1171 which alerted me to the idea this was a trade watch – which should have made me more careful, but I was blinded and ignorant.
It just shows that I do not know half as much as some people think I do. (I am just happy to share what I do know). I can only know what I have learned, and there is always more to learn. In the knowledge of bezels, I was complacent, without meaning to be, but I was.
I did not collect this watch until January, and I did not realise the bezel was fake until I posted a slightly show – off post on IG….well I did think at the time I had done spectacularly well. Oops. Here is that photo, showing the AQ watch on the left,  next to a recently acquired one owner watch of the same reference on the right.

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A sharp eyed follower alerted me (politely – some are not so polite when they see me make an error and delight in trying to shame me, so that was appreciated). So I took the post down to investigate, and to approach AQ.
Note the watch on the right, is the original one owner watch. On the left, note the position of the Dot at the 140. It is almost an ” i ” compared to the left where the dot is over the 4 of the 140.
I wrote to AQ informing them I wanted to return the watch, as the bezel was counterfeit.
The response was as expected, that the sale had taken place three months previous, and that no mention or representation of the bezel’s originality was made. They went on to say that the bezel was clearly shown in the photographs, and it can be seen that the dot over the 140 is in the wrong place.
Now this is all true. It is clear in the photo to us with the knowledge we have today, that this is a fake bezel. However in December 2018 it was not common knowledge. I am also not surprised, nor do I blame the staff for not knowing the bezel was fake for the same reason.
I also accept that it took some time to discover. Although if it were a Rembrandt sold by Sothebys that was discovered, years after the sale, as fake, then what would happen then?
Having laid out their case, which was the bezel was clearly shown, and the discovery of the counterfeit months after the sale and settlement, they offered the choice of a new genuine service bezel or a vintage DO90 replacement bezel.
I was pleased with this counter offer – returning a watch is always bureaucratically challenging, crossing customs jurisdictions and money returning, its a headache I would rather avoid. The offer was, without accepting liability, in my opinion the correct thing to do, and I am impressed with AQ’s decision. As auctioneers they are just agents, and have to be knowledgeable across a wide spectrum. How they deal with inevitable issues like this is a window into the operation. As a result of how they handled this, I would have no qualms about bidding again – I would perhaps do more due diligence, but that goes for all auction houses.
Here is the replacement they sent:

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Its not the best DO90, and we all know hard it is to find one. It is better in real life than in the photos. Bearing in mind the cost, and the condition of the rest of the watch, I am very happy. The staff at AQ turned my thinking right around. I was never going to bid at AQ again, I was so upset. I felt completely conned, and let down. However they way they dealt with it, by replacing the bezel, was an example to other auction houses. I think they took a bad situation, and turned it around. I cant tell you how rare that is in the auction world.
Now the story with AQ ends here. But the counterfeit bezel story continues.
What would you guys think of this? Here is a bezel on the same AQ watch:

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This is one of the newer fake DO90 bezels, where the DO140 is correctly positioned.
The give away here is the steel ring, and some minor font issues. Its actually easier to spot once you know.
So this watch has gone off to Simon Freese for the new AQ bezel to be fitted, and I am a happy customer of AQ. 
The more I think about it, the more I think they really did the right thing.

Bonhams Auction Feb 2019

I have done well in the past, finding original watches from this auction house. It is important as ever to view an expensive watch in person, especially to check it really is as attractive as we might think.

This particular auction is poorly presented. I really do feel that if you want to maximise the price then more than one photograph is essential, and offering these photographs with so much post processing or over exposure, is not going to help buyers reach a maximum bid if they cannot determine the colours on the dial.

All photos are from the Bonhams site, and if you follow the links you can see high resolution.

Here is the first speedmaster offered:

Lot 103 Omega. A stainless steel manual wind chronograph bracelet watch Speedmaster, Ref: ST 105.003-65, Sold 28th December 1967

Estimate is £ 8,000 – £ 12,000 plus 25% Commission

Link to Listing

We have just one photograph to go on here, but there is still quite a lot of information, in both the image and the description. First if we look at the photo, we see that the dial looks correct, but the over exposure is hiding the true nature of the lume colour – and indeed the dial colour. Bidding on this photo alone will be a gamble. Look at the 4 o’clock marker, this is showing damage at the step.

Around the dial, the minute track is showing inconsistencies, but I think this may well be crystal damage distorting what we see. With only one image, it is impossible to determine for sure.

The whole look of the lume is worrying, and the colour indicates we need to check carefully if indeed there is lume on the plots at all. I think there may be, but what colour it actually is needs to be determined.

The bezel, always an important factor in the value, is original looking, and damaged. In my mind, I give bezels a mark out of five, as a top DO90 is $5000. So this one is about a 2.5/5 giving is a nominal value of $2500 for the purposes of determining this watches total value.

The watch comes on a correct 1039 bracelet, and this also adds to the value. The endlinks do look a little sloppy between the lugs

The pushers and crown do look original, and over all this watch may well be a very good basis for a sympathetically restored original piece.

This is underlined by the description, which includes the original paperwork, box and archive information (without actually saying they have the archive!) making this a very desirable basis.

However, it all depends on what this watch looks like in hand. I really do not understand why Bonhams cannot produce a better photograph. It is pretty inexcusable really.

So as you can tell, I am torn. This watch presents as an original watch, with the correct bracelet, and extract, and box and papers. This is wonderful to have such an original appearing complete set. The thing is, I am not sure it will look very nice if the plots are white and missing lume.

You have to see it.

On now to the next, lot 107

Lot 107 Omega. A stainless steel manual wind chronograph bracelet watch Speedmaster Professional, Ref: 145.012-67 SP, Circa 1967

Estimate is £ 5,000 – 7,000 plus 25% Commission

Link to Listing


This watch has some red flags immediately. First is that the bracelet is a service item, marked 1171/1 – so not an original watch. Possibly no harm, but does make me be extra vigilant. There is also no provenance in the form of an extract, or papers. It is just a watch dumped into the auction possibly by a collector or dealer, it does not “feel” like it comes from an original owner. Sometimes you have to go with intuition.

But is it worth buying? Sometimes it is, if the watch has been cared for. Getting the picture of the site was challenging, so I suggest you toggle to it directly, using the link above.

The 145.012 is a reference we see sometimes bought and broken for parts, and so in a way they are easier to value, in the cold valuation of components. Here we have a bezel that is probably a 2/5 or less. It is damaged near the 80 mark as well as various chips.

The dial has remnants of lume, but the printing is all there, and the dial might just have an attractive body colour.

Everything else looks ok, not special or in particulary special overall condition, so I would not expect this watch to pique interest like the previous lot might. I think for what it is, it is just a little too high in the estimate. I would be surprised if this sells.

Lot 117 Omega. A stainless steel manual wind chronograph bracelet watch Speedmaster ‘Ed White’, Ref: ST 105.003-65, Circa 1966

Estimate £ 5,000 – 7,000 plus 25% Commission

Link to listing

This is quite a different animal to the first Ed White. The bezel is bleached out, though correct, and while the term ghost bezel is attached to these, I do not rate them. The dial is really quite damaged, as we can see here:

I would say the dial has spent time out side of a case.

The position of the chrono hours hand would suggest the movmeent needs a service and in general the dial is not so fine.

This is a watch for a particular person, who enjoys a watch that shows its age. This of course is related to value, and part of the attraction of a watch like this is that it should not cost very much. I think this may well have been over estimated.


Fake DO90 Bezel

This is big news, and while some people have said that they have known of these for some time, they were not kind enough to let the community know.

Now the tell tale here is the Dot near the 1 in 140. In an original bezel we see it more over the 4. In the following example you can see the different position of the Dot over the 140.

105.003 with a somewhat tired, but original bezel. So far this is hard to replicate.

Obviously my example is a well worn bezel, and this is often the confirmation of an original, but I suppose the fakers will try that too. Here is another original.

There is a discussion amoungst the community regarding the disclosure of why a bezel (or any other part for that matter is counterfeit. On one side, when we point out the errors, then the fakers get a free consultation on how to improve. On the other hand, without disclosure there will be several people defrauded.

Personally I believe in full disclosure and I think that I would spot a fake bezel in hand. The print will be too perfect and the retaining ring will either be new, or show signs of re fitting. Of course all these things might also be faked. However by doing business with people I trust, I hope to avoid being scammed. The last point is that once the fake bezel becomes indistinguishable, then they will all be worth the same.

Genuine bezel with Dot over the 4
Here we see the dot almost on top of the 1

In conclusion, be very careful when considering to good to be true condition D090 bezels!

A review 145.022-69 for sale/Now sold

Here is a watch for sale at www.OmegaForums.net. I am reviewing it because it brings up a few questions about the way we view watches on sale.

I wrote this last week, but published this only after the watch is sold, as I do not wish to unintentionally influence a sale. I have no connection to the seller and I am not recommending to buy it, but I do suggest all of the literally dozens of people who ask me about an entry level 145.022 to at least look at this and wonder if the re lume is worth living with at $5500.

145.022-69 for sale on OmegaForums.net Photo is linked from the site

Essentially this is a good looking 145.022-69 with a DO90 bezel and a dark chocolate dial. And the price has just been reduced to $5500.

Why has it not sold? Some people would pay more than half that for the bezel! Well it must be primarily because of the declared re lume.

Here we see the DO90 and also a closeup of the lume – note it does not cover the whole of the under paint and it is not applied evenly. We can see the same thing in original lume, but not quite the same. However it is similar enough to look original to most. Picture cropped from sale photo.

The owner has declared the dial and hands as re lumed. In the past, re lumes were very easy for most to spot, and were not very good. Now, we have some very skilled technicians, well one in particular,  who can replicate an aged lume on a dial, often making the watch extremely attractive and without any obvious signs of work, especially to a less experienced collector. Unfortunately, the work in this case is not top, but it is quite good. It may be possible to remove it and re apply where it is sloppy.

In the following image we can see the imperfections in the work. The 11 mark has two lines extending from it, the 12 spots do not look normal and the 1,2 and 3 marks look sloppy.

In the following image we see the hands are easily spotted as painted and re lumed as the work is not the highest standard available. Note the finish on the hands is shiny, and uneven – I want to say lumpy. It can never be confused for original, but it would be an easy fix.

In this case, the seller has correctly declared the work, but I am sure that there are others who would not have declared it and the watch would have been sold quickly at the initial price of $7500.

What I realise is that the private sellers on the forums have become quick to be up front about work done on watches. This is to be welcomed. On the other hand, buyers are not quite so ready to accept this honesty, and sometimes they go and buy a relumed watch from a dishonest person who has told them it is not relumed.

Everything has a price. And I think the price here is about right. I was even tempted to buy it myself, but I did not.

What I am saying, is that I personally am not quick to dismiss a re lume if it is up to a standard, and down to a price. Remember after all, what a dial washed of lume looks like, and which would be nicer to live with.

The original listing for this watch is here.

November 2018 Geneva 2915’s

Yesterday I took a trip to Geneva, and I held more 2915’s in one day than I have handled before in such a short space of time. It was a great learning experience.  Please remember that I really do not know a lot about 2915’s. I do not have special access to Omega like others have, and I have not seen a great number. I try to learn by looking and talking to others, but I am also learning that there are a lot of people who say they know a lot but what they say does not always fit with my observations. So as ever, if  you are a buyer for these very expensive watches, be your own expert. I am reminded of the phrase, “In space no one can hear you scream”.  What I mean in this context is that there are not many trustworthy advisers for a 2915 – and they may not hear your cries for help.

Here is the quick summary:

  • All of them set the Gieger counter off, testing positive for radioactivity, at least somewhere in the watch.
  • The first two 2915’s discussed below are much better than the others discussed.
  • There is a general feeling that the two Phillips watches might have been expected by many to have sold for more, but in the event did not explode – suggesting a flattening of demand.
  • There was a variety of dial, all flat O in Omega, some with high printing some with low – you will see
  • There were different styles of steel bezels. Some had serifs some did not, and most have circular polishing marks

Here is the first at Phillips.

My first impression is it is a really attractive watch. This photo does not convey the pleasure of holding the watch. The dial is a lovely even colour and is not damaged or degraded. Here in the photo, the plots look not very nice. The original listing is here

Lot 111 2915-1 Sold at Phillips for CHF 200,000. Photo linked from Phillips

For me this was super attractive. I did not get good viewing photos but here is a glimpse:

Lot 114 2915-2  and Lot 111 2915-1

Straight from the Iphone but we can see immediately the catalog photo does not capture the essence of the watch. The dial colour is truly galaxy and pleasant. Delving deeper into this particular watch, the hand lume looks very new. It also compliments the dial so well it is hard to imagine it is not a restoration. The Geiger counter clicked away happily so there is Radium somewhere in the watch. We always have to remain skeptical as it is known that some restorers place a dab of radium under the dial to fool those checking with a Geiger meter alone.

The case was good and had the speedmaster engraved abound the edge. In general i liked the case, it had good definition and the years had not been cruel. I do not think it has been refinished though I am sure like every sixty year old tool watch it has had some sort of polish.

Now the bezel. I simply do not know enough. For a while I proposed that the engraving was by pantograph. Now people with knowledge tell me it was acid etched. I can see even just in this one day in Geneva that there are bezels with serifs and bezels without. All look aged, but I cannot tell if it is old. All the bezels I examined showed concentric polishing marks – presumably from the bezel being placed in a lathe and polished. I would imagine that this would have been done during a service to remove dings and scratches on an original bezel, but also to reduce the height of a reproduction bezel.  So all this leaves me to value all 2915 bezels for the price of the repro – which in itself is currently more than a cheap 145.022.

This tropical dial sold for $200,000 all in. I was honestly expecting it to go for more, and indeed the estimate was up to $300,000 plus premium – so I think the seller thought it would go more too. As I have said, it was a very attractive watch in hand.

Phillips sold two 2915’s in one sale, and here is the second one:

Lot 114 2915-2, photo from Phillips

I thought this one was superb. So good that I asked the on-site watchmaker to tell me if it was relumed. (Why would I trust him, the employee of the seller? Well obviously I do not know him, but one has to take all information one can, and I do not distrust him either. In general, I find people with technical skills tend to be far less devious than the people who are further up the client interface ladder). He told me he thought the lume is original, and indeed the Geiger counter once a gain clicked away.

I think this was a really nice watch, Perhaps there were problems I do not see, or that my naivete is hiding from me, but I would say this is a really good watch. Now is it worth the $225,000 it achieved? Well I think it fits in the ladder of my expectations. This is a fortune for a watch, and we are in rare air. My thoughts are that the buyers for this watch are different to most of my Speedy friends so its hard for me to really feel what is going on. What I do think is that many people might have guessed this would have gone for more – however there was not the fight in the saleroom that I for one was expecting.

In conclusion, I felt the two 2915’s at Phillips were very attractive, and sold for less than I was expecting, and that perhaps the auction estimates were too high. (Therefore makes me think these were trade watches – but that is another story).

Phillips showed a 2915-3 that will be offered in Hong Kong. Here we see the Broad Arrow hands combined with a black BASE1000 bezel. The estimate is a probably realistic USD$60,000 – $100.000.

Lot 978 2915-3 offered by Phillips Hong Kong November 2018

Here is my viewing shot of it. (The light in the viewing hall was awful unless you were at a table with a light, or you could get up and walk to the windows)

My impression was, its OK, but after seeing the other two, it made me like those two in Geneva more – it can be deceptive, when you see a really good watch in isolation, especially an expensive one, sometimes you do not really get it until you see the lesser quality soon after.

The dial is a nice colour, and undamaged, the impression is good. The hands might also have been re lumed and the centre chrono seconds hand is painted, and I would have expected a metal one in an original watch. But all in all this looks pretty good for the price.

The BASE1000 bezel like many does not look attractive, but it is still one of the better ones I see. Which is my problem with the BASE1000 black bezel – they often look grey, illegible, dry or tired. Just not a nice thing to be looking at on a $60k+ watch.

Another way to look at it, is to ask is this 2915-3 a better value route to 2915 ownership than one of the $200k watches?

Phillips also are going to offer a 2915 in New York on 5th December. The sale is not yet compiled, but here is what will be lot 26, a 2915-2:

Lot 26 2915-2 in the upcoming Phillips sale in New York December 5th 2018, photo from the preview viewing in Geneva

The estimate on the above watch is $60,000 to $120,000. This watch set off the Gieger counter and the dial looks ok. The bezel has serifs and shows circular polish lines. I think I had seen so many by this stage, it was a case of oh, another 2915, so what? So viewed in isolation this might be an interesting watch.  By this time I had 2915 fade.

So a short taxi ride in the sunshine and to the Christies viewing. Here there was very little for the speedmaster nerd, except for its 2915-1 coming up in

Christies showed one that will sell in New York 6th December. This watch shows very original, but it is shagged. The case is completely polished and without definition, the lume on the hands is positively botanical, but it really does look like a watch that has been owned and used for most of its sixty years. For a price, it is likeable.

2915-1 previewed in Geneva to be sold in New York in December.

This watch is offered with an older extract and is really not in the same league as the Phillips  watches, but it does have an attraction, in that I do not think it has been messed around with. We might even guess that this is an original bezel – but this highlights the problem with the steel bezels – what is an original? How many styles were there? What was the manufacturing method? Note this bezel does not have the circular polishing marks, but it does show it has been polished on a flat surface by hand with perhaps a fine abrasive. Something that would almost certainly be routinely done to bezels during service when the watches were considered tools.

 

Blue Dials, and The Phillips Auction in Particular

Blue dial speedmasters are almost mythical.

They have been seen over the years in several case references, but so far all in calibre 321 references. To be clear we are talking about the metalic lustre dials, sometimes referred to as Solei. The angle of light it crucial – in real life the two on the right are very similar. On the left is the Matt Grey dial that we are not going to cover here.

Left to Right: Matt grey 105.003, Blue Soleil 105003 with Non Pro dial, long indices and short T marks. Finally a 2998 Blue Soleil on bracelet with Non Pro dial, with short indices and T marks.

Here is the “TimeTitans metalic blue 145.012. I failed to buy this twice!

145.012 sold by Time Titans for $8000 (from memory), and then about five years later, Ebay for $12,000+. Note the professional dial with short indices and T marks

The dial is a hard metallic lustre, and a dark blue body colour and this can look grey. In fact one sold at Christies was described as grey, but when compared to others it is the same blue. This dial style was useed in other Omegas, the TV dial for one.

I believed (up until now), in the absence of a better theory that these blue, metallic dials are in fact service dials fitted by Omega. Now that Phillips has produced one with an extract this theory is threatened. But why did I think this?

  • There is no known listing of these dials that suggests that this was an option to buy new in a speedmaster – there are no contemporary photos or catalogs showing a blue metallic dial.. (But nor was the Ultraman which the museum has recently announced is a “Real Model”)
  • There are very few seen, and to my knowledge these have been seen on 2998, 105.003 and 145.012.
  • I have seen three different executions. A short indices non pro, a long indices dial non pro, and a short indices 145.012 professional dial. (This last one out of my grasp – I call it the Time Titans watch, as I saw it with them several years ago and I failed to buy it).

So now lets look at the Phillips watch. I review the sale here

We can clearly see this is indeed a metallic blue soleil. It is however not in as good condition as the two presented to Auction in the last five years. A close up reveals a damaged and spotted dial. (Bezel is fabulous mind you!)

But the real question is this. How come that a dealer in Mexico managed to sell a watch in 18 May 1964 that was yet to be released by Omega until 11 September 1964. The official explanation is listed in the description as:

“Interestingly, the Extract from the Archives confirms the country of destination but it mentions a sale date 4 months later than the one mentioned on the original warranty. This riddle was solved thanks to the assistance of Omega: as it turns out, they marked in their books the watch as sold only once they received the payment. It then makes perfect sense that the “Archives Date” is later than the one on the Guarantee.”

Photo from Phillips. respected member Kov on OmegaForums has pointed out this booklet was not issued by Omega until after 1969, and so asks how can it be a legitimate issue in 1964? Fair question

We also know that Omega’s archives, which I must repeat is staffed by incredibly helpful kind and knowledgeable people, are not straightforward to read. Much of it is on punch cards, with holes designating model and specification by their location on the card.

I have asked for several extracts for blue dials and none have come back blue. I suspect that there is a certain amount of pressure that has been applied by Phillips to get this extract. And the explanation stinks – because if that is true, then it brings into question what the date on all our extracts is, as it is not then a “Production Date” it is a payment date, and so makes a nonsense of what we have all been thinking to date.

Phillips repeat the line that 5 to 10 exist. Lets see. We have four so far in this thread.

This one was seen on ebay, October 2015.  It is possible it is one of the ones already mentioned, but I cannot see a similarity.

Photo from ebay via OmegaForums

Sold by Menta Watches after asking $32,000 in 2017. Note Non Pro dial with  long indices, damaged at 6 and 10 O’clock.

Here is one posted on Omega Forums by member DLT222. Obviously we are looking at the left hand watch. Note the Non Pro dial, short indices.

Photo linked from OmegaForums by member DLT222

This one, published on Omegaforums again, is possible not Soleil – the photo is hard to see:

Photo linked from Omegaforums

In february 2018 OmegaForums member Cad290 Showed this. I am sure the lustre is metalic, and it is blue – The plots are a very unusual colour. Note the Non Pro Dial, long indices, and short T marks.

Linked from OmegaForums by member Cad290

Here is the same watch in natural light. This highlights the difference lighting makes when photographing these wonderful watches:

The same watch, from Cad290.

This one, definitely a blue soleil, was shown in Geneva 2016 by Davidoff Brothers. Note the Non Pro dial with short indices.

Image linked from Omegaforums, by member Dr Steel

Here is another 145.012, exhibited by sliceoftime.id. It does not appear to be the Time Titans watch and so we can say it is the second 145.012 seen. Note the dial is a Professional, long indices.

Photo by Sliceoftime.id

After I published this, further examples have come to my attention. Here we see one from The Master of Speed. (He always presents good examples of watches):

Linked from OmegaForums, photo by MasterofSpeed

 

Conclusion

I have photos here for twelve. (And I know of three more not shown here). I have seen many combinations of blue soleil dial, we see both long and short indices on both Professional and non Professional dials.

It is possible there is a Grey Soleil – one with the metallic lustre but black/grey not blue. They are difficult to photograph and so the colour is not always true.

There is also a Matt Grey dial, and this is usually in poorer condition, as the materials appear to be unable to withstand the passage of time.

I do not think that Omega has a record of when a blue dial was fitted. I think more will be revealed with the Phillips watch as it is opening a an of worms regarding Date of Production, which is stated on the extract, now being announced by Omega via Phillips that it is actually date of payment.

Watches Of Knightsbridge November 2018

Watches of Knightsbridge are having a watch sale on 3 November 2018 in London. There is as usual a huge variety of manufacturers and qualities and I would urge anyone who can to view this in person, as it is a rare opportunity to see so much in one place. The firm has raised their game in presentation but have been caught out by the Ultraman, as they originally presented the wrong number on the extract. I have some sympathy for them as it appears to be a typo. In general I would say that as a group this is the highest standard of Speedmasters I have seen at WOK to date.

All images here are links to WOK and have not been harvested or held on my servers. All images have a lot of dust, and some are over exposed, leaving hard to fully appreciate condition. As I said before, viewing this auction is important to get a true impression.

Here is the WOK statement of buyers premium (noticeably cheaper than other B&M acutions) :

Every sale will be subject to a buyer’s premium of 20%+VAT (24% inc. VAT) on the hammer price.

There will be no additional charge for online bidding through our website or through www.thesaleroom.com

Note: All Estimates are in GBP Sterling, currently 1 GBP = USD$ 1.31

Lot 179     145.022-76      3,000 – 3500

Photo linked from WOK site

A simple and correct example, with a good bezel and dial, all in above average condition. It is probably estimated on the high side, but it does appear all correct. The trouble is at this level the difference between fair price and high is perhaps GBP 500. So it makes a difference if the watch needs to be serviced, and if it has the correct bracelet. This one has the service, which is good, but the bracelet is a later service item, being 1171/1. Still this watch is worth having compared to some I have seen, and the higher price might easily be forgotten if it is as nice as I think it might be.

Listing Here

Lot 183      145.022-71 NoNasa       4,500 – 5,500

Photo Linked from WOK

A very rare, NoNasa case back with extract.  Lets hope all that dust is on the crystal and not the dial – it is probably dust. The watch itself looks very nice. The case is good, the dial has a hint of colour if I am not mistaken and the hands bezel and crown all look in good condition and correct. It has an extract, and I expect this rare reference to attract strong bidding in this condition. If I did not have one I would go for this.

Listing here

Lot 184      145,022-69     4,000 – 4,500

Photo linked from WOK

Portuguese import marks, which may make it more interesting to someone. Interesting that the extract shows 1970 release date, and indeed the extract is a welcome piece of mind. Watch has severe chrono creep and so will need a service immediately. The dial Looks attractive – it has a hint of tropical to me. I think the watch needs a good watchmaker, and I am a little concerned because the pushers look recent, indicating work, and therefore I wonder did they just change the pushers, or has it been serviced badly? It really does not matter, this is an interesting watch that a decent service will bring up to standard. My feeling is that the price is a little high but it will sell as I think it might be very attractive in hand. For me as ever it is better to over pay for an attractive watch than buy a bargain which does not please visually.

Listing Here

Lot 185     145.022-68 Transitional     4,500 – 5,500

Photo linked to WOK Site

I like a transitional, but this one makes me hesitate. I would want to satisfy myself those lume plots are original. I am really in two minds  about them – or at least I cannot make up my mind. First, there is signs of the lume blurring off the plot onto the dial, (blow up the photo inspect the 6 and 7 o’clock plots – I would do it for you but WOK have asked me not to reproduce their photos – the ones on this page are links, not reproductions). Secondly, the plot colour is strong, unusually yellow, and uniform throughout. However the colour impression may be caused by the inferior photography.

That said I find the body colour of the dial itself very attractive.

The bezel is chipped to an unattractive state. The case looks nice and in general the watch might be a good buy at a certain level. However I would not buy without seeing those plots under a loupe. I have a feeling I would like this watch in hand, and it is not crazy money for an auction.

Listing Here

Lot 186     145.022-69 Straight Writing    4,500 – 5,500

Photo linked from WOK Site

Immediately apparent to me is the vary attractive dial. The hands are in excellent condition. The pushers are old and dirty, and I suspect they and the crown are original. In fact I suspect this watch is quite original as it looks dirty, and the bezel might improve with a simple clean. This watch will be transformed by a proper and sympathetic service, (keeping all the parts of course) and I like it.

Bracelet is not the usual one associated with this reference, maybe it is an export market bracelet. It is marked Omega, and it does not worry me unduly.

I like this watch.

Listing Here

Lot 187 145.022-69 220 bezel 6,000 – 7,000

Photo linked from WOK

This is a “dry”looking brown, and the serial is not known for brown dials. (brown dials are seen in all serials for -69 but more common in 2911 and 2960.)

While this is indeed brown, it is not the lovely warm colour I associate with high prices, but I would say this one will sell. Personally I do not like this colour enough to pay a high premium – for me the dial is decaying, not fading or changing to brown. Do not misunderstand me, I like it as an object, but over paying for it might be regretted later. The trick with this watch is to view it at least three seperate times. If each time you see it, you think, “Oh, it looks better than I remember it” then it is a buy. If each time you see it you think, “oh, I thought it was better than that” then do not. That is my method. Since I have not viewed it yet I will hold judgement. I might add finally I know of no other 220 bezel watches with a dial that looks like this, so it is at the very least an Outlier.

The bezel on this one is the rare 220 miss-print and the serial falls in range as specified in the updated MWO information.

Lot 188     145.012-67 Pulsations     10,000 – 14,000

Photo linked to WOK

This is another interesting watch, if at first glance expensive. Price aside I like it very much. The dial is an attractive browninsh colour (much more attractive than the previous lot) and the pulsation bezel is an original vintage one, as evidenced by the line just under the numbers.

The whole watch has an air of use about it, (patina if you will) and I like that – it makes me feel it is original. The bezel is lightly damaged, and this adds to the overall impression this is an original piece. It is a lot of money, for a 145.012 without a DO90 bezel, and I personally do not value the pulsations on a par with the DO90, but I think others are starting to – it is after all rarer. So I shall watch this watch with interest. I think it is one of those watches to be bought high, but with no regrets.

Listing here

Lot 189     145.012-67 Ultraman     20,000 – 25,000

Photo linked from WOK

I think there is something coming I am going to call “The curse of the Ultraman!” It seems anyone who has anything to do with them publicly gets attacked. This is due to the massive rise in interest, and therefore values, in what is essentially an Orange hand – and the ease in which one might be fitted – though as yet I do not think that has happened due to the longer length than is available. (And perhaps a blacker dial, but I think the dial is not unique(?). Watch that statement invoke the Ultraman curse!

It fits with all the perceived requirements, the long reddish orange hand, and extract, and also the black dial.

However as mentioned, there is some confusion as to the veracity of the extract – I am sure this will be sorted out before sale and either WOK will have the correct extract or it will not, and it will no longer be an Ultraman. The Curse Strikes Again !

I would guess the paperwork will all get sorted out, and we will see a good result, enabling us to peg the real values of these watches.

Lets assume the extract pans out. Then we are looking to check the Orange hand. That appears to be long enough to be a real Ultraman hand. I cannot tell if the dial is one of the black glossy ones that people more knowledgeable than me say should be on an Ultraman, but it may be. The bezel is very good but has a damage at the top.

Interestingly the front page of the WOK website has a better image showing clearly a glossy dial and slightly reddish Orange hand.

To be honest, a lot of the fun has evaporated from the Ultraman as many of the people voicing opinions have been quite unpleasant to each other and left a bad taste in my mouth.

Listing Here

Lot 190     105.012-66HF      “Cartier Number” 6,500 – 7,000

Photo linked from WOK

The Auctioneers have done some research and attributed the number on the lugs to Cartier, which is interesting – although the estimate does not seem influenced by this. It will be interesting to see how the market reacts. The watch itself is good, with original pushers. I personally like the HF case on the 66.

The dial is nice, the pushers have fat necks, the hands are in good condition. Overall I like this watch, and the estimate is not crazy. In fact I think it is the best value here.

Listing here

Lot 191 2915-1 missing bezel 60,000 80,000

Photo from WOK

I cannot understate how interested I am to see where this goes. The dial is flat oval Omega, and decayed, blotchy in the way I have seen in a few 2915’s – which I find attractive. The extract is from 2008 so I would want a new one, which might not be forthcoming.

However the serial looks ok, and the rest of the watch looks good.

One of the things to look for in 2915’s especially those we mght consider projects, is the condition of the case. Some of these old references seem to be susceptible to corrosion, especially at the case join. This one seems to have escaped that, adding to the attraction.

Listing here

Lot 192     105.12-66CB     6,500 – 7,500

Photo linked from WOK

Another 105.012 this one delivered to Japan, so we might think it could be in better condition as the Japanese do take care of things….sweeping racial judgement but they do. This watch has the fat neck pushers. and is in good condition, let down a little by the bezel. The dial and hands are in very nice condition. The case must have had a little polish as the facet lines are not as obvious as some.

I am sure it will sell well.

Listing here

Speedmasters at Phillips Auction Eight

Phillips are holding what they call Auction Eight (not a bad idea to number them) in Geneva on November 10th and 11th 2018. I cannot quite see why it is listed over two days, and the auction is scheduled to start at 5pm Geneva time on 10th November.

Here is the relevant paragraph from Phillips site regarding buyers premiums:

Phillips charges the successful bidder a commission, or buyer’s premium, on the hammer price of each lot sold. The buyer’s premium is payable by the buyer as part of the total purchase price at the following rates: 25% of the hammer price up to and including CHF250,000, 20% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF250,000 up to and including CHF4,000,000 and 12.5% of the portion of the hammer price above CHF4,000,000.

Lot  17     105.012-66CB     $7,200 – $12,300

Photo Linked from Phillips site

From the front this is a very nice example. The bezel is correct DO90 in good condition, and the dial is is also in good condition, with some plot decay, and the lume is very thin. The hands are in much better condition, and I would wonder if they have been replaced. The back of the watch carries engraving, and I am one of those who does not care for engravings, unless there is a NASA connection, and this is not. To be fair, the estimate does not appear to have been influenced. The watch has an extract which is always good. The facet lines on the lug are visible and the pushers have fat necks, the crown appears correct. I expect this will sell well and the owner very happy.

Listing here

Lot 33     145.022-69      $7,200 – 12,300

Photo Linked from Phillips site

An immediately attractive watch. The dial colour is a very attractive brown, without appearing decayed, and fits in the 2911xxx serial range where we expect to see these kind of dials. The case is slightly damaged, and there is a very annoying chip on the otherwise fantastic bezel. It is so close to being a “buy at any price watch” with that dial and hand set, but it is not. It is let down from that lofty high by the case and bezel, but it is still a very nice watch, just one I would not bid to the moon for. It is very desirable  and again will give pleasure of ownership.

Listing Here

Lot 34     BA145.022-69      $15,400 -$25,600

Photo linked from Phillips

There has been considerable interest in the market for these gold watches and especially this reference recently and so I think the estimate might be low. This is a later example, No 722, and has the round O in Omega on the dial. (Although evidence does not support a connection between production number and dial style). The bezel is original but tired, though I have seen worse. It is not possible to truly gauge the condition of this watch from the photos, sometimes these gold watches can show some wear, but this watch seems good enough from what I can see to blow through the high estimate. I am slightly concerned by the fit of the endlinks, and as ever with these we have to check the condition of the bracelet as repairs are very pricey – think $5,000+ for a bracelet restoration. Though that never puts buyers off, I do not think they believe it!

Listing Here

Lot 36     Alaska Prototype     $41,000 – $61,000

Photo Linked from Phillips site

Outside the scope of my site, but oh I want this. I sometimes wonder if someone has a whole pile of these things and is dripping these interesting prototypes onto the market, but I really like this. I cannot believe it wont go for over $100,000.(Despite the Chrono creep!). What a rare piece of history. (Assuming Omega does not have a drawer of these somewhere in the factory!)

Listing Here

Lot 37     105.003-65     $20,500 – $30,700

Photo linked from Phillips site

This is estimated quite high, and on close inspection it is true that the dial and bezel are in good condition – not fine, but good. I personally do not like or value the bezel colour. The case is hard to judge and I think in hand it will give a good impression – it could be the result of Omega refinishing as it looks similar to watches I have seen fresh from Bienne. The pushers and crown look original, but some how I feel this watch might be close, but no cigar. In fact I suspect it is a dealer watch. Why? Because the quality is slightly lower, (but hard to criticize,) and the price is slightly high. I could be wrong and this watch definitely needs to be held before being able to feel comfortable with a high bid. For me this is not a watch I would go hard for, given the grey bezel and the polished case.

Listing Here

Lot 39     105.003-63 Blue Dial     $61,500 – $123,000

Photo linked from Phillips

This is the first blue dial I have seen with an extract from the museum that specifies a blue dial. There is a debate on www.OmegaForums,net regarding the dating anomaly between the extract and the guarantee, here.

Well I don’t care about the papers, the value is in the dial itself, though I accept some will pay more as a result of the papers, were they to prove genuine. Right now the estimate reflects the value of similar watches sold without papers.

I could get quite critical of this very rare watch, as compared to other blue soleil dials as this dial does show some marks and damage.

However it remains a very interesting and valuable watch and I have no doubt it will sell well.

Listing Here

Lot 111     2915-1 Tropical     $154,000 – $307,000

Photo linked From Phillips

This is a terrific watch, with tropical dial and an extract. The bezel looks ok to me, and the rest of the watch checks out as far as my knowledge will allow. I do like the colour, and I cannot see this watch not selling well.

Bezels are always a worry on these and there is some discussion of them here. Though as ever when money is involved it gets a bit off piste with personal discussions of motives, but there is some interesting stuff there for the prospective 2915 buyer

Listing Here

Lot 114     2915-2     $154,000 – $256,000

Photo linked from Phillips

The dial on this watch is very good. One might even say it is in better condition than the tropical one in the same sale, if we just look at condition of the surface of the dial. It is really impressive. The bezel is so worn, we have to wonder why, and how, and I invite you to make your own mind.

A very special example.

Listing here

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