Welcome to the new style price chart for 2020!

Updated  for June 2020

We have had interesting times – I have seen interest rise in interest for watches under $15,000 and intense interest in those under $10,000. Also top examples (really top, special condition) are selling quickly, but there are very few examples offered. The medium quality straight lugs are selling at slightly lower values

  • This chart is reflective, not predictive – for example the $400,000 for the Excellent 2915-1 is based on an actual sale at Phillips. Most of us think that price might not be repeated for a while. However there is not a comparable sale to replace the data. (Yet).
  • The lower end 4 digit references are going to be wildly variable and the prices offered are ball park. They become more accurate as the quality rises.
  • It is worth considering that some categories might not exist in real life. e.g. the poor 2998-3 for $9,000 is unlikely to be complete with all correct parts, so immediately we have to take away from that figure for missing bezel or incorrect pushers.
  • This Chart is for MOTIVATED COLLECTORS. The prices here DO NOT reflect retail prices (as found in Vintage Watch Shops), or often not even dealer prices all of which are often 20%-100% higher.
  • Prices are for watches that have, or can get an Extract Of The Archives from the Museum confirming the movement number.
  • The 2915 steel bezels are crucial to the value of the 2915’s. Find someone who knows to look at one before you buy.
  • The black BASE1000 bezels are an important part of the 2915-3 to 2998-2 and so check them.
  • DO90 bezels are now an important part of any valuation. A flawless one was $5000 but I think realistically the value is now $4,000 but I know of no sale to back it up in the last 12 months. The value plummets quickly as the damage, marks or discoloration appear. If it is nearly fine then it might only fetch $2000-3000. There is a huge difference in value for that last 10 – 15% quality. (A small degradation is a huge loss of value).
  • BEWARE OF FAKE DO90 BEZELS ! Easy for me to spot, but especially check if the bezel looks clean
  • Lastly, if you disagree with this chart then produce your own –  go for it. I would be happy to publish it. I am not the guru here, others know far more than me, and I would be happy to help them spread their knowledge.

Don’t forget to value of the intuitive attraction some watches have.

Reference PoorFairGoodVery GoodExcellent
2915-1No Data65,000120,000200,000400,000
2915-2No Data65,000110,000185000350,000
2915-3Broad Arrow / Steel bezelNo Data25,00035,00055000100,000
2915-3Alpha/BASE1000No Data25,00032,0004800085,000
2998-1BASE1000No Data20,00028,00058,00070,000
2998-2BASE1000No Data20,00027,00045,00065,000
105002-62Alpha HandsNo Data14,00018,00028,00038,000
105002-62Baton HandsNo Data12,50016,00027,00035,000
145022-69 SW ApolloNo DataNo Data6,0008,80014,000
145022-69 SWFlight Q.2,6003,3004,2006,80011,000
145022-71 NNNo NasaNo DataNo Data4,7007,00011,000
145022-74No Step Dial2,4003,0003,5004,5006,800
Blue Metalic Dial23,00030,00035,00045,00065,000
145012-67NonPro Black Racing30,00038,00050,00065,00080,000
145012-67Pro Black racing3200040,00055,00075,000100,000
145022-69Grey Racing25,00030,00040,00055,00075,000
BA145022-6918Kt Yellow Gold, inc bracelet23,0003000040,00055,00095,000
145022Apollo SoyuzNo Data30,00050,00065,00085,000
Alaska IIINo DataNo DataNo Data185,000200,000

Remember a Collectors Condition 2915 is probably not the same condition as a Collectors 145.022-78


Its getting hard to sensibly price watches with good DO90 bezels – I am sure you can see anomalies that this might through up in the calibre 861 speedmasters.

Recent prices for DO90 bezels have peaked at $5000, but now I detect no recent sales at that level and so $4,000 seems a better estimate. Therefore 145.022-69’s need to valued higher if they carry a DO90.

I have separated the 145.022-69 with a DO90 bezel, or 145.022 with a DN90.

I am not sure how to deal with bezel madness – the bezels are selling for more than they increase the value of a watch without one. My figures for REPLACING a missing bezel are:

  • Rough on “POOR”                         +450
  • Passable on “FAIR”                       +500- 800
  • Good on “GOOD”                          +800- 1700
  • Very Good on “VERY GOOD”      +1700 – 2500
  • Top on “EXCELLENT”                  +2500- 4000  (Very, very few are 4000)

Note also that the references preceding the 145.022 without a DO90 bezel need to be devalued as appropriate.

Note On BASE 1000 bezels

The 2998-1 and -2 are often traded with DO90 bezels instead of the correct BASE1000. The prices for 2998-1 or -2 above include a price for a commensurate bezel. These BASE1000’s are worth approximately $10,000 to $20,000 depending who you talk to. A poor one might be $1500 – 2000 while a mint one might sell for $15,000+. There is talk of them selling for more but not confirmed. Recently I have seen imitations that are close, but do not pass.

If you use this table use your head too.

The figures here are based on actual transactions (that I know about) between willing buyers and willing sellers. Prices are in USD $ for the head only. (Except the BA145022).

You will have to make a judgment on the watch you are looking at, and take the price from that category. You will then have to subtract as you see fit for missing or erroneous parts, or add a premium if the watch holds a particular attraction. I have chosen names for the categories. Don’t get hung up on the words, they are just four groups.

New Categories!

Look at the three major parts, the case, the dial and the bezel. Decide which category each part falls into and make an informed judgement as to what the watch is overall. It is possible it as an Excellent dial and a fair case – so use your judgement, take an average and see how it feels. This chart is just to get you in the right area. It is not an exact proscription.

Poor – These watches are unattractive, have damaged parts, and have very little going for them other than they can tell the time correctly twice per day. The bezel is damaged, the dial is damaged, the case has lost definition or heavily scored. The movement might be corroded, or missing some minor parts. Often these can be valued more accurately by valuing the parts separately. The figure here is really just a guide.

Fair – Often the quality of a well used watch, one that has lived a useful life. It might be damaged or missing some service parts, movement needing work. This category can sometimes be improved with sympathetic work and service. It will remain fair if after service it still shows a damaged bezel, a dial with damage or missing, or discoloured plots, and a case with missing lines or heavy damage.

Good – Complete with correct parts. it is likely the lowest condition most collectors or owners are happy with. The case and dial and bezel should be without significant damage, though there may be some wear or light marks on case or bezel. The plots are an attractive colour not green or missing. Some minor plot damage or issues are acceptable. The bezel may have several marks but no major damage.

Very Good – Case Dial and bezel are without obvious damage. Parts are original or replaced with correct vintage replacements. The watch is attractive. The parts look good together. There may be minor marks on case or bezel, and the dial is clean and with attractive plots with luminous material intact.

Excellent Very, very few watches are in this condition. Very little wear and without any damage. Perhaps very minor marks from very light wear No damage or degredation to dial, case or bezel, all parts correct and original.  This is the highest price I would expect a Speedmaster to fetch unless it is New Old Stock and absolutely unworn ever – this is another step up in value.

Fratello has a good price chart for more modern Speedmasters here.

More General Notes on Using the Chart:

  • This Chart is REFLECTIVE, not PREDICTIVE. So it is what watches have previously sold for, not what they are going to sell for or what they OUGHT to sell for.
  • This Chart is FOR MY REFERENCE. You are welcome to use it and remember your experience and opinion of prices may well be different, and it is equally valid. My Chart, my Experiences, my Values. If you disagree, then try instead to see the relationship between the values and that could still be helpful. I am not omnipotent, and this is the best I can do with the resources I have.
  • categories are now divided into five.
  • It is possible/likely that watches trade for over the chart – it does not mean they are too expensive, it means the market is moving and if you let me know I will adjust the price based on actual transactions. Also if the watch is just more attractive than the average watch, the it is worth more.
  • Most watches are now offered via dealers or collectors. Premiums are paid for one owner untouched watches. So well over the chart.
  • Remember also, this chart is aimed at collectors, trading between themselves. Bricks and Mortar auctions are more expensive. Dealers got to eat – with your money.
  • These prices are US$ for the head only (with the exception of the BA145.012-69) . Any papers, bracelet,  original box or history will add value.
  • Remember also, exceptional watches will command prices off the chart – if a watch is especially attractive, then they will command a premium. A exceptional dial can add 100%. (Note: Exceptional)
  • Be careful with this chart – and be ruthless with your judgment. Get a base price and add on for the indefinable attraction, or even that you just want to pay more to buy it now. We have seen tremendous rises in prices and the danger is the poor qualities are selling for silly money – to be regretted later I think.