Price Chart

Updated  for June 2018

  • This Chart is REFLECTIVE, not PREDICTIVE. So it is what watches have previously sold for, not what they are going to sell for or what they OUGHT to sell for.
  • This Chart is FOR MY REFERENCE. You are welcome to use it and remember your experience and opinion of prices may well be different, and it is equally valid. My Chart, my experiences, my Values. If you disagree, then try instead to see the relationship between the values and that could still be helpful. I am not omnipotent, and this is the best I can do with the resources I have.
  • People continue to be confused by the categories. There is no hard definition. There cannot be. This chart is to give you an idea when you see a watch.
  • It is possible/likely that watches trade for over the chart – it does not mean they are too expensive, it means the market is moving and if you let me know I will adjust the price based on actual transactions.
  • Most watches are now offered via dealers or collectors. Premiums are paid for one owner untouched watches.
  • The 1970’s 861’s are becoming hard to find and I think nicer examples may well trade well above the chart. (See below prices have moved).
  • This Chart is for MOTIVATED COLLECTORS. The prices here DO NOT reflect retail prices (as found in Vintage Watch Shops), or often not even dealer prices all of which are often 20%-100% higher. Almost every price in the chart is backed up by a known purchase or sale, often my own.  I genuinely believe I or you can find a watch at prices I quote – with patience and dealing with the Vintage Omega community.
  • Remember also, exceptional watches will command prices off the chart – if a watch is especially attractive, then they will command a premium. A exceptional dial can add 100%. (Note: Exceptional)
  • Be careful with this chart – and be ruthless with your judgment. Get a base price and add on for the indefinable attraction, or even that you just want to pay more to buy it now. We have seen tremendous rises in prices and the danger is the poor qualities are selling for silly money – to be regretted later I think.
  • DO90 bezels are now an important part of any valuation. A flawless one is $5000, but the value plummets quickly as the damage, marks or discoloration appear. If it is nearly fine then it might only fetch $3000-3500. There is a huge difference in value for that last 10 – 15% quality. (A small degradation is a huge loss of value).
  • There is no longer anything on general sale worth having under $3000 – if it is under it might need a lot of work and parts, or you could be lucky…
  • The single sale of a 2915-1 is in the chart. Note I have not pulled the price of the other 2915’s. This was a dilemma – if the 2915 price is repeated at the Christies auction in june, then surely the other 2915’s will rise as well? But I have not hard data, and my chart is reflective.
  • Lastly, if you disagree with this chart then produce your own –  go for it. I would be happy to publish it. I am not the guru here, others know far more than me, and I would be happy to help them spread their knowledge.

Remember also, this chart is aimed at collectors, trading between themselves. Bricks and Mortar auctions are more expensive. Dealers got to eat – with your money.

These prices are US$ for the head only. Any papers, bracelet,  original box or history will add value.

Don’t forget to value of the intuitive attraction some watches have.

Please Read All Notes At The Bottom Of The Page

Reference Project Running Good Collector
2915-1*** 55000 75000 400000
2915-2*** 40000 65000 130000
2915-3*** 18500 50000 90000
2998-1 20000 42000 85000
2998-2 18000 40000 70000
2998-3 16000 28000 44000
2998-4 16000 28000 44000
2998-5 16000 28000 44000
2998-6 16000 28000 44000
2998-61 16000 28000 44000
2998-62 16000 28000 44000
105.002-62 Alpha 12000 22000 28000
105.002-62 Baton 10000 16500 22500
105.003-63 8500 17000 25000
105.003-64 8500 17000 25000
105.003-65 8500 17000 25000
105.012-63 6500 12000 18000
105.012-64 5500 12000 18000
105.012-65 5200 12000 17000
105.012-66CB 5200 12000 17000
105.012-HF 5200 12000 17000
145.012-67 4500 7500 13000
145.012-68 4500 7500 13000
145.022-68 4000 6800 10000
145.022-69/DO90 3300 6800 9800
145.022-69/DN90 3000 4600 6200
145.022-69SW 3200 5200 11000
145.022-71NoNasa 4600 7400 10500
145.022-71 3400 4400 5600
145.022-74 3200 3600 5100
145.022-76 3100 3600 5000
145.022-78 3100 3500 5000

There are now only three categories as the Poor is non existent, and I  cant find any in this condition any more.

SW=Straight writing engraved back

***Very little data is available for 2915’s. Also the early executions of the 2915-3 and the early 105.002 are worth more. Also remember a Collectors Condition 2915 is not the same condition as a Collectors 145.022-78

Complete correct 321’s are getting good money. Be sure it is correct before you go spending your son’s inheritance.


Its getting hard to sensibly price watches with good DO90 bezels – I am sure you can see anomalies that this might through up in the calibre 861 speedmasters.

Recent prices for DO90 bezels have reached $5000. Therefore 145.022-69’s need to valued higher if they carry a DO90.

I have separated the 145.022-69 with a DO90 bezel, or 145.022 with a DN90.

I am not sure how to deal with bezel madness – the bezels are selling for more than they increase the value of a watch without one. My figures for REPLACING a missing bezel are:

  • Rough on “POOR”                         +450
  • Passable on “RUNNING”           +600 – 800
  • Good on “GOOD”                           +2000- 2500
  • Top on “COLLECTOR”          +3000 – 5000 (Very, very few are 5000)

Note also that the references preceding the 145.022 without a DO90 bezel need to be devalued as appropriate.

Note On BASE 1000 bezels

The 2998-1 and -2 are often traded with DO90 bezels instead of the correct BASE1000. The prices for 2998-1 or -2 above include a price for a commensurate bezel. These are worth approximately $10,000. A poor one might be $1500 – 2000 while a mint one might sell for $15,000.

If you use this table use your head too.

The figures here are based on actual transactions (that I know about) between willing buyers and willing sellers. Prices are in USD $ for the head only.

You will have to make a judgment on the watch you are looking at, and take the price from that category. You will then have to subtract as you see fit for missing or erroneous parts, or add a premium if the watch holds a particular attraction. I have chosen names for the categories. Don’t get hung up on the words, they are just four groups.

Poor – I have removed this category, because they really need to be valued for the useful parts they contain – that’s a new subject.

Running – Probably needing a service, but almost all parts present and correct for the reference. This is the most common category, be prepared to reduce from here for each incorrect part.

Good -Serviced, complete with absolutely correct parts. Could be called “very good” it is likely the condition most collectors or owners are happy with. The case and dial should be undamaged.

Collector – Very, very few watches are in this condition. Almost unworn, untouched. Unpolished, faultless. This is the highest price I would expect a Speedmaster to fetch unless it is New Old Stock and absolutely unworn ever. If you take this price to value a watch, I am certain I could find reasons to reduce from the figure. (Which is the idea). A further concept to illustrate “Collector” is the idea that if it were worn for six months, it would become “Good”. It does not include NOS which is an ethereal market. In the early watches, (2915 and 2998) the collector price reflects the best that I have seen available. There are early watches I know of, that if placed in auction might sell for double the Collector price as the condition is so exceptional. As this has not happened, I have no data with which to move the chart.

Fratello has a good price chart for more modern Speedmasters here.

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