Updated for July 2017
- This Chart is for MOTIVATED COLLECTORS. The prices here DO NOT reflect retail prices (as found in Vintage Watch Shops), or often not even dealer prices all of which are often 20%-100% higher. Almost every price in the chart is backed up by a known purchase or sale, often my own. I genuinely believe I or you can find a watch at prices I quote – with patience and dealing with the Vintage Omega community.
- Remember also, exceptional watches will command prices off the chart – if a watch is especially attractive, then they will command a premium. A exceptional dial can add 100%. (Note: Exceptional)
- Be careful with this chart – and be ruthless with your judgment. Get a base price and add on for the indefinable attraction, or even that you just want to pay more to buy it now. We have seen tremendous rises in prices and the danger is the poor qualities are selling for silly money – to be regretted later I think.
- DO90 bezels are fetching ever higher prices, last trade for a top one was nearly $5000. A realistic figure for an average one might be $1500 to 2500. It is a sad fact the now the state of the bezel is an important part of any valuation.
- Lower quality watches are fetching higher prices, especially at auctions where watches that might fail to sell at $3000 on a forum are selling for 50% more in the excitement.
- 2998’s are very sparse and data is non existent, in the same way as 2915’s have been for the last 5 years. However the values have been raised as those who own are not yet tempted to sell at previous levels. There are some poor ones on sale at the moment – by that I mean just not attractive.
Remember also, this chart is aimed at collectors, trading between themselves. Bricks and Mortar auctions are more expensive. Dealers got to eat – with your money.
These prices are US$ for the head only. Any papers, bracelet, original box or history will add value.
Don’t forget to value of the intuitive attraction some watches have.
Please Read All Notes At The Bottom Of The Page
There are now only three categories as the Poor is non existent, and I cant find any in this condition any more.
SW=Straight writing engraved back
***Very little data is available for 2915’s. Also the early executions of the 2915-3 and the early 105.002 are worth more. Also remember a Collectors Condition 2915 is not the same condition as a Collectors 145.022-78
Complete correct 321’s are getting good money. Be sure it is correct before you go spending your son’s inheritance.
Its getting hard to sensibly price watches with good DO90 bezels – I am sure you can see anomalies that this might through up in the calibre 861 speedmasters.
Recent prices for DO90 bezels have reached $5000. Therefore 145.022-69’s need to valued higher if they carry a DO90.
I have separated the 145.022-69 with a DO90 bezel, or 145.022 with a DN90.
I am not sure how to deal with bezel madness – the bezels are selling for more than they increase the value of a watch without one. My figures for REPLACING a missing bezel are:
- Rough on “POOR” +450
- Passable on “RUNNING” +600 – 800
- Good on “GOOD” +2000- 2500
- Top on “COLLECTOR” +3000 – 5000 (Very, very few are 5000)
Note also that the references preceding the 145.022 without a DO90 bezel need to be devalued as appropriate.
Note On BASE 1000 bezels
The 2998-1 and -2 are often traded with DO90 bezels instead of the correct BASE1000. The prices for 2998-1 or -2 above include a price for a commensurate bezel. These are worth approximately $10,000.
If you use this table use your head too.
The figures here are based on actual transactions (that I know about) between willing buyers and willing sellers. Prices are in USD $ for the head only.
You will have to make a judgment on the watch you are looking at, and take the price from that category. You will then have to subtract as you see fit for missing or erroneous parts, or add a premium if the watch holds a particular attraction. I have chosen names for the categories. Don’t get hung up on the words, they are just four groups.
Poor – I have removed this category, because they really need to be valued for the useful parts they contain – that’s a new subject.
Running – Probably needing a service, but all parts present and correct for the reference. This is the most common category, be prepared to reduce from here for each incorrect part.
Good -Serviced, complete with absolutely correct parts. Could be called “very good” it is likely the condition most collectors or owners are happy with. The case and dial should be undamaged.
Collector – Very, very few watches are in this condition. Almost unworn, untouched. Unpolished, faultless. This is the highest price I would expect a Speedmaster to fetch unless it is New Old Stock and absolutely unworn ever. If you take this price to value a watch, I am certain I could find reasons to reduce from the figure. (Which is the idea). A further concept to illustrate “Collector” is the idea that if it were worn for six months, it would become “Good”. It does not include NOS which is an ethereal market.
Fratello has a good price chart for more modern Speedmasters here.